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Legg innLagt inn: 03 sep 2017 19:56 
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Registrert: 07 mar 2006 02:07
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MC: BMW R1200GS Adventure 2016
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Kule bilder =D> =D>

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2017: Nye dekk på 20260 km - Metzeler Tourance Next = 4495 km
2017: Nye dekk på 24755 km - Avon Trailriders
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Legg innLagt inn: 03 sep 2017 21:07 
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Registrert: 06 okt 2015 06:50
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MC: Aprilia Tuono V4 1100 RR
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Noen flere bilder fra MXGP i Uddevalla EMX 125

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Legg innLagt inn: 16 sep 2017 20:47 
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Registrert: 06 okt 2015 06:50
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MC: Aprilia Tuono V4 1100 RR
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3 nye EMX125 bilder fra Uddevalla MXGP

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Legg innLagt inn: 17 sep 2017 20:36 
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Registrert: 06 okt 2015 06:50
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MC: Aprilia Tuono V4 1100 RR
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og noen til EMX125 :D

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Legg innLagt inn: 17 sep 2017 20:38 
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Utrolig bra bilder!

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Legg innLagt inn: 17 sep 2017 20:43 
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Registrert: 06 okt 2015 06:50
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MC: Aprilia Tuono V4 1100 RR
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supermons skrev:
Utrolig bra bilder!



takk :redface

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Legg innLagt inn: 25 sep 2017 21:22 
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Registrert: 06 okt 2015 06:50
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MC: Aprilia Tuono V4 1100 RR
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Vanskelig å få tid til noe som kan ta mye tid med 2 små i huset men endelig er video fra min pröve tur på den ny Aprilia Shiver 900 klar.

Nå dette er en skikkelig morsom sykkel med samme motor som i Dorsoduro 900 men i naken sykkel chassi. Begge disse syklene har nydelig lyd og krefter nok og litt der til for å ha det morro på norske veier. Godt med plass å sitte og god kjøre komfort. 900cc twin leverer nydelig men blir litt kjedelig i motorvei fart men det er ikke der disse skal kjøres, hverken Dorsoduroen eller Shiveren.

Shiver 900


og Dorsoduro 900

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Legg innLagt inn: 01 okt 2017 21:53 
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Registrert: 06 okt 2015 06:50
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MC: Aprilia Tuono V4 1100 RR
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Da har jeg endelig fått editert video fra min prøvekjøring av Honda CRF1000L Africa Twin under Monsterbike sine demodager i Augusti.

Etter RuneMC sin varme omtale om denne sykkelen har den stått på listen over sykkler jeg må få testet. Det ble den klassiske med manuell gir (så ikke eksakt den samme som RuneMC sin)

Nå skal det sies at jeg ikke forventet meg noe i nærheten av vad Tuono presterer i form av krefter og dreimoment, tross for omtaler om en kick når en vrir på rulla :twisted:, og riktigt nok føles den mer sedat i sammenligning men det er ikke helt fair da de ikke er samme segment eller i det hele bygget etter samme premisser [-X

Dette var en hyggelig sykkel å kjøre på bortsett fra den evige problemen med vindskjerm på mc og meg da. Det var noe infernalisk med turbulens rundt hjelmen og til tross for øreplugger og ikke noe ekstrem adferd så var det plagsomt de 15 min jeg brukte på motorvei totalt på denne turen. Instrumenteringen er grei og funksjonell men jeg slet litt med å finne hva som endret seg når jeg brukte +- knappene på venstre siden da det ikke var den store endringen på skjermen (noe man lærer seg raskt uansett så ikke noe problem hvis det ikke var en tidsbegrenset prøvekjøring der det gjelder å kommer ivei så raskt som mulig :redface ).

ATn ligger fint langssvigene opp og ned Hanekleiva så ikke noe å utsette der, nå skal det sies jeg ikke har noen annen ADV erfaring over hanekleiva så det stor mot RR,naken, motard og cruiser sykler over der men føltes naturlig å svinge der. Npå gikk det nok bitte lite langsomere med ATn enn med mange av de andre syklene mye pga den noe høyere kjøreposisjonen. :redface

Jeg tviler ikke ett sekund på at denne kan ta en rundt jorden hvis en ønsker.


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Legg innLagt inn: 07 okt 2017 16:22 
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Registrert: 06 okt 2015 06:50
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MC: Aprilia Tuono V4 1100 RR
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MX2 fra Uddevalla MXGP

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Legg innLagt inn: 29 okt 2017 11:39 
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Registrert: 06 okt 2015 06:50
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MC: Aprilia Tuono V4 1100 RR
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Noen foto fra Uddevalla MXG, MX2 klassen, fra August i år

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Legg innLagt inn: 04 nov 2017 19:12 
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Registrert: 06 okt 2015 06:50
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MC: Aprilia Tuono V4 1100 RR
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En video fra i sommer på vei langs Eikeren og Hanekleive på turen til forhandler for 10kkm servicen


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Legg innLagt inn: 25 nov 2017 12:50 
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Registrert: 06 okt 2015 06:50
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MC: Aprilia Tuono V4 1100 RR
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Video fra prøvekjøring av 2017 Aprilia Tuono V4 1100 Factory tidligere i høst


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Legg innLagt inn: 26 nov 2017 20:39 
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MX2 fra Uddevalla GP 2017
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Legg innLagt inn: 02 des 2017 20:41 
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MX2 fra Uddevalla MXGP, litt test av demperne her

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Legg innLagt inn: 05 des 2017 20:44 
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We #bearacer club riders are a very demanding bunch of guys who use their bikes to the limit in all kinds of conditions and are therefore constantly on the lookout for ways to improve our riding skills so that we can continue to push the envelope that little bit further on every adventure, but ever more safely as well.


That’s why, when it came to talking about an issue as important as braking technique when you’re riding a bike out on the road, we approached our friends and partners at GSSS, or “Scuola di Guida Dinamica Sicura su Strada” (LINK http://www.gsss.it/ ), the expert FMI federal instructors that we met at the #bearacer club Riding Practice day at the 41st Stelvio Rally, who helped us to pen this article.

Braking
Although for most of us acceleration is probably the most exciting part of riding a bike, this is certainly not the first thing we should be learning about: indeed, braking is by far the most important riding manoeuvre that you need to know how to do on the bike, as well as the one that could land you in the most trouble as regards losing grip, at least until such time as you have learned all the necessary braking theory and practical braking skills.

Undoubtedly the main role of the brakes is that of a safety device and although we won’t be discussing emergency stops in this article (a topic we will be addressing in the future), what we will be discussing here is the use of the bike’s brakes as an active part of the bike’s controls that are responsible for the bike’s handling and, more importantly, for ensuring your riding pleasure.

The front brakes
As we all know, the front brake is undoubtedly the most important since it enables the experienced rider to control the bike in virtually any situation and is usually the first thing you grab for when you need to slow the bike down as quickly as possible. But have you ever asked yourself why this is?

To answer this question we need to review the laws of physics: it could be said that the quickest deceleration that can be achieved during braking is directly proportional to the amount of friction that is generated between the bike tyre and the tar. That force is the product of the coefficient of friction of the tar/bike tyre and the amount of weight bearing down on the tyre itself.
Simply speaking, what this means is that when you pull on the brake lever mounted on the handlebars, you are effectively triggering a situation opposite to that which what happens under acceleration, in other words the weight is shifted forward onto the front wheel, which, due to the resulting increase in the size of the contact patch between the tyre and the tar, is better able to withstand the natural tendency to slide.
So, while it may sound strange, using the front brakes does not always result in less grip, but indeed, in certain situations it results in more grip.
In addition to the above, the forward weight shift compresses the front forks, which in turn lowers the front-end of the bike and marginally shortens the wheelbase, all of which helps the rider to line up the bike properly to take the bend. That’s why using the front brakes as you approach a bend (and for the more expert riders amongst you, even slightly delaying the release of the brake lever, known in biking circles as: “braking into a bend”) actually makes it easier to drop the bike into the bend.

There are, however, a number of important factors that you need to take into account in this regard. The first of these is that the coefficient of fiction can vary widely and is influenced by a whole host of factors that are often beyond the rider’s control, such as the type of bike you’re riding, the type of tyres fitted to the bike and the prevailing road conditions. Secondly, as we have already said, your objective is not always necessarily just to slow down as quickly as possible, but rather to slow down in the right way, so as to enable you to drop the bike into the bend, but without overly upsetting the bike’s balance. During this delicate phase the bike will always display some tendency to slide, also defined as a collateral effect, which makes the bike’s handling even more delicate and more susceptible to change. In any event, even remaining within the limits of grip, using the front brake to slow the bike down as you approach a bend may trigger a straightening-effect that could cause the bike to run wide in the bend. Certain bikes and certain types of tyres are more susceptible to this phenomenon than others.

For all of these reasons, and as we’ll see in the next paragraph, using the front brake for braking purposes is not always necessarily the best response.

The back brakes
This is where the back brakes come into play. Obviously their job is to slow down and stop the bike, but they are also an effective tool for correcting the bike’s trajectory and controlling the movement of the back-end.
The main effect of the back brakes is to shift the weight onto the rear of the bike, lowering the back-end and restoring grip and control to the back tyre.
When you’re slowing down or approaching a bend, you can use the back brakes to lower the back-end of the bike or limit the weight transfer caused by the use of the front brakes (you can also to some extent achieve the same effect by gearing back and using the engine to slow down the bike), whereas, when you’re already in the bend, applying the back brakes can be a very useful way to slightly tighten the bike’s trajectory without laying off the throttle, which could seriously affect the bike’s balance and cause a jerking motion. This is a very good reason to always keep your right foot ready for action.

How and when to brake
Still as regards on-road riding, perhaps on a great mountain road somewhere with lots of cool bends, it’s always advisable to use both back and front brakes, applying the back brakes first (which is also useful in terms of gauging the amount of available grip), before applying firm, gradual pressure on the front brakes, thereby giving the bike sufficient time to transfer some of the weight back onto the front-end and bear down on the front tyre, setting the bike up perfectly to take the bend.
How easy is that? The truth is that it takes quite a whole lot of practice to improve your riding sensitivity and to enable your movements to become increasingly fluid, natural and in-sync.

Braking when fully loaded or carrying a passenger
We have already seen how the phenomenon of weight transfer between front and rear plays such a major role in braking. That’s why it’s particularly important for us bikers to understand and master the concept of weight distribution on a two-wheeler, which is influenced by the type of bike and it’s characteristics, and above all whether or not the bike is loaded or you have a passenger on board.

The more weight there is on the rear-end of the bike, the slower will be the back-end’s tendency to lift under braking and the slower will be the weight transfer to the front-end. You will therefore have to wait a little longer before applying a good dose of front brake, which, as we have already stated, is the more efficient of your two brakes but is also the most likely to cause dangerous sliding.
Under such riding conditions, it is essential that you distribute the luggage load you’re carrying as evenly as possible, for example by placing heavier objects in your tank bag, and that you increase the pre-loading on the back suspension as shown in the bike’s user manual in order to help balance the load on the bike.

GSSS, or “Scuola di Guida Dinamica Sicura su Strada” is a #bearacer club partner when it comes to issues such as riding techniques, particularly as regards editorial content and training events, as some of our members discovered at the #bearacer club Riding Practice at the 41st Stelvio Rally.
Their rider training centre is based at the Federal Technical Centre at Polcanto (Florence), where they offer all sorts of training courses run by FMI federal instructors certificated by the IGSS.
Find out more on http://www.gsss.it/

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